100% COTTON
Cotton is a wonderful fibre; it can be easily washed, takes colour beautifully, maintains its shape and can be knitted into a myriad of different stitches and weights. It feels fresh when worn next to the skin.
However, not all cotton is equal, as has become apparent in recent years. Traditionally, cotton is grown using a range of harmful chemicals, including pesticides and fertilizers, not to mention the chronic over farming of the land. It has also been a product of slave labour and even today, the exploitation of a workforce in certain countries. This is why it is so important to check the cotton we buy is produced using organic and ethical practices all the way through the process.
During my career working as a knitwear designer, I have spent a lot of time sourcing the finest and best cotton from around the world. I have used this experience to find some cottons that are really high quality and wear extremely well to use in my collection. Cotton goes through many more processes than other fibres, which has historically made is very difficult to trace and be sure that it has been grown and produced organically. However, in recent years, largely due to consumer demand, more research has been undertaken in this fields of organic cotton farming and traceability from raw material to finished product. Today, 100% organic, traceable cotton can now be produced on a large scale.
So how do you know that your cotton really is organic?
The main certificate of accreditation is GOTS: The Global Organic Textile Standard. This has been developed by leading international organizations in organic farming in order to ensure that
the consumer is provided with organic textile products obtained in compliance with strict
environmental and social criteria applied at all levels of the production. From the harvesting of
the natural fibres to the subsequent manufacturing phases, up to labelling of the finished
product. This certification is accepted in all the main markets.
ICEA (Ethical and Environmental Certification Institute) this accreditation is used to
verify the approval of chemicals that can be used in the textile ennobling of GOTS certified
textile products. This also ensures that the dyes used to colour my cotton knitwear comply with these stringent controls.
TRACEABILITY. The cotton yarns in my collection can be traced back 100% to the original fibre, because the mill only buys fibre which has an approved Mark of Origin or registered Trade Mark.
I have chosen 3 cotton yarns for my collection: both GOTS certified: Peruvian Pima Cotton which is considered to be one of the finest cottons
on the market because of its extra-long staple (ELS) which means each individual fibre is longer than regular cotton and so is less likely to pill, break or thin. It also means that the threads are very smooth and regular making the knits look very clean and the stitches very clear which is why I like to use it for knitting fisherman’s ribs and stripes.
The second cotton yarn in my collection is a blend of GOTS certified Organic cotton (85%) and Extrafine Merino (15%) and the third is a GOTS certified Organic cotton (95%) and cashmere (5%). I have chosen this yarn because it offers the warmth and softness of Merino or Cashmere with the cleanness of stitch and freshness of cotton so that it is a perfect blend for year-round wear – perfect for a Gansey jumper with its intricate stitches which will be worn in all weather. It is also a great spring/summer alternative to the 100% British wool which has been designed with the cooler months in mind.
